Step back in time and feel like a Lord or Lady with a stay at historic and opulent Lumley Castle in Durham

When thinking of the grandest possible place to stay, you can’t get much better than a castle - and Lumley Castle, Durham, is not only grand, but historic and beautiful.

I was delighted to be invited to stay for the weekend with my partner, Callum. We saw the castle, on Ropery Lane, Chester-le-Street, minutes before we arrived as we approached on a main road, and the fairytale weekend started there and then.

It may be close to a main road, but as soon as you arrive on the grounds that feels a million miles away as it’s surrounded by lovely green parklands and is very peaceful. The building itself is, of course, so much more than a hotel. It’s a momument, a landmark, a piece of history - and it’s stunning.

It is a sight to behold, and certainly something I think people should travel to see - but it’s more than a tourist attraction and so much better than many of the UK’s other castles because you don’t just spend a few hours there, you stay overnight and have lots of time to marvel at all of it’s wonderous features and actually experience what it would have felt like for the previous very prestigious owners.

Inside the castle, which is a Grade 1 listed building, ancient history meets modern luxury. Our room, which was a castle superior room, was a spectacle in itself. There was a sumptious king sized bed which was on a platform on it’s own, accessible up just a few steps at the left hand side of the room and, on the right hand side of the room, also up a small number of steps, was an in-room bath with shower.

There was also a dressing table, a chest of drawers, a wardobe and an area to sit and look out over the castle grounds. It all looked and felt very luxurious, with the aesthetics you would expect with a building which is more than 600 years old and has this level of grandiosity.

The furniture, for example, were period pieces of dark wood and elegant shapes which you could imagine the previous inhabitants would have actually used. The bed was created with a four posted bed feel, thanks to the rich wine coloured curtains which hung around it. There were all the usual modern amenities we have come to expect from a modern hotel room, such as a flatscreen TV, tea and coffee making facilities and USB charge points, but these were all added in discreet ways which did not take away from the historic feel, while still being very accessible.

I must admit there was some confusion at first about where the toilet was, as on first glance it appeared that we had the bath in the room and also a very big wardrobe - but upon opening what we thought was the biggest wardrobe door we quickly discovered that this was actually the doorway to a separate toilet and sink area. It felt like something out of the Lion, The Witch and The Wardrobe. Granted, what was behind the door wasn’t Narnia but still. We’ve never been so amazed by a toilet and never will be again. It was an unexpected, quirky feature of the room which we enjoyed.

All in all, it was an extremely impressive room. We did wonder if the set up of the room had maintained the original layout from when the castle was first built. Obviously we had a modern bath and a modern bed, but we could imagine that the platforms were created for a bed and a bath all those hundreds of years ago. This certainly could have been a luxury room where a person of deity would have stayed and be tended to - and staying in this room made us feel like we were Lord and Lady, just for a weekend.

Sitting and relaxing in the room with a cup of tea, we couldn’t help but wonder about all the people who would have been in our room throughout its history. In fact, every room you go to in the hotel, such as the Knights Restaurant and the Library Bar, makes you wonder about the people who would have been there in the many hundreds of years prior. Every room was incredibly opulent and beautiful with outstanding period features to appreciate.

On the Saturday evening, we were treated to a delicious meal at the Knights Restaurant. The restaurant itself was elegant and inviting, with dimmed lighting for an intimate feel. We each enjoyed a main course and decided to share a dessert as the portions were so plentiful.

As a vegetarian, I chose the pan fried neck of butternut squash, dal lentils and seasonal greens. The meal was packed full of flavour and wonderfully presented on the plate. My many compliments to the chef - and also my gratitude for creating a different dish to the usual veggie staples that are usually on menus. It was very nice just to have something different, particularly as butternut squash is one of my favourite ingredients.

Callum chose the roast chicken gremolata, with buttered vegetables, gnocchi and tarragon jus. He also found his dish very enjoyable and appreciated that the meal was something not commonly seen on menus. For dessert, we split the chocolate mousse with hokey pokey, raspberry gell and blood orange sorbet. As chocolate lovers, the mousse was just what we wanted; rich, decadent and moreish. The orange sorbet and raspberry gel were tangy and punchy, but the two offset each other very well.

The menu isn’t huge - there are seven main courses to choose from, for example, plus the grill section - but it was clear from the food that we sampled that quality is the focus here, not quantity in terms of options. The ingredients are fresh and seasonal and meals are thoughtfully put together to create unique and tasty combinations.

After dinner, we went in to the Library Bar to relax and enjoy some drinks. The seating was very comfortable and the environment was the right balance of peaceful and lively. The bar was clearly popular with many guests as the tables were full so there was an energetic atmopshere about the room, but it also felt cosy and we easily got lost in our own private conversation - which mainly focused on how brilliant the castle is. The staff were incredibly attentive, as they were in the rest of the hotel, and kept our drinks flowing. The bar was so inviting and relaxing, in fact, that we happily spent most of the evening there.

After a restful nights sleep, we awoke the next morning ready for breakfast and keen for exploration. The breakfast, which is a combination of continental buffet and made to order cooked dishes, was as enjoyable as our dinner the previous evening. After we had eaten, and before check out, we took the opportunity to look around the castle a little more - after checking that this was okay with the staff.

Every corner we turned, every room we entered and every corridor we walked down there was something new and amazing to see. There were busts of great historical figures such as Julius Caesar and Cleopatra, magestic ornate vases and statues, paintings of royalty from years gone by, and the most intricate coving with flowers and angels. Outside was just as magnificent as inside, with a beautiful courtyard and impressive stonework to admire.

The castle is simply incredible. The amount of thought that has gone in to every aspect of the hotel to make sure it is a palatial and treat for the guest, while also staying true to its history, must be applauded. We loved our time at Lumley Castle and all it has to offer, and are keen to return in the future.

The last thing Callum and I did before we left was see if we could see the true Lady of the castle, Lady Lumley - or at least her ghost. Unsurprisingly with a place like this, the castle is supposedly haunted by the spirit of a 14th Century lady of the manor, Lily Lumley. It’s said that she was thrown down a well in the castle grounds for turning her back on the Catholic faith, and her spirit remains there to this day. Guests who are brave enough can look in to a well to see if they can spot her looking back at them.

We each had a go and neither of us saw her, but I hope that, if the story is true, Lady Lumley is pleased to know that the stunning home she left behind is providing a one-of-a-kind breathtaking place for so many people to stay many centuries later. Lumley Castle is a sparkling jewel in Durham’s crown.